Dear visitors,

The following text is the complete journal of Mrs. Mary Horton on her trip to Ireland, posted in chronological order and dated at the time she wrote each entry. Below that is the extra information and pictures pertaining to the journal entries.
Personal photos taken on the trip will be posted soon.
Thank you for your interest, comments are very welcome!

Day 1: September 13, 2007 Thursday

Today is the day I have always been dreaming of. This day I am going back in time to visit the place my mother’s family came from— Ireland.

My daughter Brenda also wanted to visit Ireland, so she set the wheels in motion. She picked me up at home and we took a taxi to the airport. When we checked in, they told us that our flight out of Atlanta was delayed because of bad weather and that it was impossible to make the connection for the international flight out of JFK airport in New York.

Brenda checked other options; they had a flight out of Syracuse on Jet Blue that might make it. It had a 1 ½ hour time frame between arrival & departure. She booked us on that flight and all went well. We arrived in New York in plenty of time to make the connecting flight, but when we went to baggage pick-up— no luggage.

We waited a very long time. Finally, a few bags trickled down the ramp, then no more. We were told that they were going to get more. Again we waited.

Finally another passenger told us that they have our bags at another ramp. We retrieved our luggage & madly dashed through the airport to the international point, only to be told that our plane had just taken off.

We then took a taxi to a hotel, and waited a half hour for a room. We ordered pizza to be delivered. The room itself was beautiful and spacious and it even had two telephones, but we were too tired to enjoy it. We lost one day of our trip, and extra expenses.

What a day.
Trip to airport.
Taxi to hotel.
Hotel room.
Pizza in room.
Food at terminal.


Day 2: September 14, 2007 Friday

We left the hotel in N.Y. and went to the airport by shuttle. Upon arrival we were told that there were no immediate flights available to Ireland, but that they did have one that went out of Atlanta. Brenda booked us on that flight and we waited half and hour for the departure.
Our plane was scheduled to leave at 4:30 p.m. While we were waiting, they changed the departure time to 5:15 p.m. When Brenda asked about this we were told that that we wouldn’t have time to make the connecting flight, so she cancelled our reservations.
While she was doing this, they again changed the departure time back to 4:30 p.m. By this time Brenda was a wee bit upset. She again tried to book us on that flight, but was told that there were no open seats left. Ha! By this time she was livid.
The attendant would not even try to assist us; he told Brenda that she had to clear the problem with airline officials. She raced to the office, & after a long wait and much stress she got us clearance. The official told her that it could all have been handled at the gate.
There I was, waiting at the gate for Brenda to return. People were boarding the plane, and our luggage was already on board— but still no Brenda. Finally, she came racing back— all winded and on the verge of a heart attack. We still had to race up the ramp to board our plane before it took off.
We did make it, we took our seats, and were off. At least, that’s what we thought.
When our plane approached the runway & we were finally ready for takeoff, our pilot shut down the engine and announced that we were delayed because of severe storms in Atlanta. He said we were going to keep our place so that we would be ready when clearance for takeoff was given— in 2 hours.
When the weather in Atlanta finally lifted, and we got clearance for takeoff, we had a medical emergency on-board and had to return to the gate— another hour’s wait.
We eventually took off and landed to another missed flight. There were about 40 to 50 other passengers in the same situation.
So now we’re in Atlanta without our luggage or any clean clothes. The airline let us know that we could get a special rate at the hotel & furnished us with a ditty bag containing a cheap hair brush, toothpaste and toothbrush, & a shimmy shirt to sleep in.
Before leaving for a hotel we got lunch to take with us. I ordered sweet & sour pork, which I love. We waited half an hour to board the shuttle to take us to our hotel. Upon arrival, we were told that they wouldn’t give us a discount without a voucher from the airline.
When Brenda and I got to the room I tried to eat my dinner, but it was so spicy and hot that I could barely eat it, even after drowning it in duck sauce.
By this time we were pretty tired & decided to call it a night.

Day 3: September 15, 2007 Saturday

This morning Brenda had a headache, so we left the hotel to walk across a busy road to the supermarket. When we arrived we found it to be an oriental store staffed by Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Vietnamese employees. Everything was marked and labeled with oriental symbols.
It was a fascinating experience and I found many gifts I would have liked to buy, but I didn’t want to spend the money I had earmarked for Ireland. We returned to the hotel, ate breakfast, and then took a shuttle to the airport. Again, we waited and waited, but at least this time there was no chance of missing the flight.
Each time we went through security we were pulled aside for a special check. Someday they will have us walk through it naked and be done with it.

We did make the plane and had a long, but pleasant flight. We ate dinner, read, watched a movie and traced our progress on the monitor. We always knew where we were and how much farther to the destination.

There was some turbulence, but it was a fine flight nevertheless.

Day 4: September 16, 2007 Sunday

Arrival at Bunratty Castle
Finally, at about 9:30 a.m. Sunday morning we arrived at Shannon Airport. Wonderful, now we are ready to begin our journey. At the incoming baggage area we waited for our luggage to arrive. We waited, waited, and waited some more. No bags.
We found out that because of a lack of space Atlanta shipped our bags by way of JFK airport out of New York. There we were still— in our grubby clothes. All the passengers from our plane were in the same situation.
Brenda rented a car and we proceeded to the Dunn Department Store to purchase a few things. We got the necessary items and proceeded to a hotel. Brenda and I freshened up, rested, ate, and then started our tour.
That afternoon we set off for Bunrutty Castle and Folk Park. The scenery enroute and throughout Ireland is awesome. There really are five shades of green. Driving is an experience. Roads are narrow, rocky and there are turnabouts every few minutes. A turnabout takes the place of traffic lights at intersections. You enter a circle, watch for incoming traffic and look for your exit; it could be 1, 2, or 3. It’s like being in a spin. No sooner do you leave one, you’re already approaching another.
At the castle and park we viewed many buildings, a gate house, thatched cottages, & shoppes. The castle itself is huge, all stone, and standing on land consisting of about 14 acres. The steps leading up to it are circular and narrow; one slip and down you would go. The castle has:

1. Basement— storeroom or stable
2. Main guard— vaulted hall, minstrel’s gallery (an inside balcony used by musicians), main room, and common guard now used for banquets.
3. Captain’s quarters— for the captain of the guard.
4. Great hall— originally banquet hall & audience chamber of the Earl. Judgments were rendered here. The walls are exceedingly high and hung with ancient tapestries. Cupboards were hand-carved in 1570 and are beautiful. Standard or flag with 16th century coat-of-arms.
5. Earl’s kitchen— food prepared here, there are large turtle shells hung on the walls and used as bowls or lids.
6. Earl’s bedroom
7. North Solar— private apartment for the Earl’s family.
8. Private chapel
9. Earl’s pantry
10. Public chapel
11. Priest’s room
12. Robing room
13. Upper bedroom
14. South Solar— guest apartments

We took in every nook and cranny. It was an incredible climb, but worth every single minute. There are numerous castles throughout the country. Some are restored, but many are in ruins.
What a history this country has! I wish I had my camcorder, but Brenda had a digital camera and she took many pictures, and a few hundred at my plea and request. What patience she had.
Today was special, because I felt like we finally arrived and our journey was beginning.
Brenda and I went back to the hotel and had dinner at a nearby restaurant. It was delicious. I had steak and a bushel of various vegetables. The bread was incredible.
The end of a wonderful day.

Day 5: September 17, 2007 Monday

Arrival at Bruree
I received a call from the desk of the hotel. One of my bags was delivered— the one with my camcorder missing. At least now I had clothes and makeup.

Monday we drove south to Bruree where my family came from. This was the main point of my trip. I wanted to see where my grandmother, great-grandmother, Uncle Pat, and my mother’s cousin Eamon De Valera lived.

My mother’s aunt Catherine Coll came to America where she met and married Juan Vivion De Valera; a music teacher who was employed in the same building where Catherine worked as a domestic. Vivion De Valera took sick and died of consumption when their son Eamon was two years old. Catherine had a very rough time trying to work and care for her baby at the same time. The sitters were not very reliable.

When her brother Ed was returning to Ireland she sent her son to be with her mother and sister— my great-grandmother and grandmother still living in Ireland at that time. Circumstances over the years prevented her from getting him as he stayed and was raised there. Eamon attended Bruree National School in Bruree, County Limerick and also attended Charleville Christian Brother’s School in County Cork. He later went on to graduate in mathematics from the Royal University of Ireland. He taught mathematics as a professor in an Irish university and became Chancellor of National University of Ireland from 1922 until 1975.
Eamon met and married his lovely wife, Sinéad de Valera at one of his teaching positions.

He participated in the Easter Uprising of 1916. Irish patriots fought for freedom and independence from the United Kingdom of Great Britain and he was the last commander to lay down his arms. The other 13 commanders of the Uprising were executed, but Eamon was spared because of his American citizenship and birth. He was sentenced to life in a British prison, but he later escaped.

Later in life he entered politics and became Prime Minister of Ireland for several terms, he became head of the League of Nations for two terms. In his late years he was made President of Ireland. Because of his public role he met many heads of state, Popes, and other world leaders. He hosted John F. Kennedy, and later Lyndon B. Johnson and family when they came to Ireland. Eamon attended JFK’s funeral and walked behind the caisson. At that time he was almost completely blind.

So much for a little background.

Normally, going back after so many years, you wouldn’t get to see the old homestead unless descendants still lived there, but in this case, because he was famous, they restored his home where he was raised and turned it into a national monument. They also turned the school he attended into a national museum.

On our first visit to the museum the curator was not there, but the attendant in charge showed us around and showed us a film of Eamon’s life. We also saw personal effects and memorabilia of his life; birth certificate, pictures, math and report cards, the church he attended, and the house he lived in, and a replica of him as a school boy at a desk and another of him as a grown man in a study. It was moving.

A man was going to show us Eamon’s home, but as I was just starting my tour of the museum I didn’t want to cut it short and he couldn’t wait.

Later, Brenda and I spent some time in that area, but couldn’t find the house. We went back to the museum as I wanted more pamphlets. This time the curator was there. She was aware of my connection to De Valera from the attendant.

We spent quite a lot of time exchanging stories and information. We exchanged addresses. I promised to send her a copy of an article on Catherine Coll De Valera— Aunt Kate’s side of the story. The curator said she would enter it into the museum.

I had purchased a picture of the mill at Bruree and she insisted on giving us a gift. She gave me a clock with pictures of De Valera on it, and a mug for Brenda. The curator was able to secure the key to the homestead of De Valera and showed us the way. The back of the cottage, originally a farm, is now a park-like setting with trees. The house is small as it was a humble home.

We were able to go inside, see the two bedrooms on the second floor. I actually sat in an overstuffed chair that was used by all the family, and I also sat on a bench at the table they ate at. There were pictures on the walls and statues on the shelf above the hearth. I left really moved. I never had the love of a grandmother, as both of mine were dead before I was born.
I gathered some soil and rocks for my mother’s grave.

If I never saw much more of Ireland, I completed what was so important to me.

We thanked our gracious curator and left. What a perfect day. I couldn’t have done this without Brenda, as Bruree was not on any of the tours. We went back to the hotel and again we had dinner at a nearby restaurant.
We called it a night and rested up for another day.

Day 6: September 18, 2007 Tuesday

Trip to Blarney Castle

We overslept and missed the breakfast at the hotel, so we ate on the road (not literally). Today we went to Blarney Castle. The drive to all Irish sights is truly beautiful. Brenda took numerous pictures and with my prodding, many, many more. We climbed to the top of the castle, which was similar to Bunratty Castle. The climb is a feat in itself on narrow, winding, circular half-steps. I’m surprised that they don’t have accidents or falls.
While there we saw the Great Hall, dungeon, murder room, knight’s quarters, the Chapel and Priest’s room. I thought I wouldn’t make it, but with perseverance and rest along the way I made it to the top.
The Blarney Stone is situated at the top. There was a grate to keep you from falling through as you were suspended upside down and it was scary, but I did kiss the stone and, of course, instantly became more eloquent in my speech to which my writing can attest. Ha ha.
What a thrill to be able to view the entire countryside. We toured the area around the castle, shops and churches, graveyards, cottages with thatched roofs, parks, woodlands…etc. No words can describe the experience.
Outside the castle I found the most fabulous flowers. I took some cuttings and made an arrangement out of them at the hotel to adorn our bathroom.
We went back to the hotel and had a light supper at the nearby restaurant. Later I watched TV and slept like a bear. I had a woven wool blanket that I would have liked to have purchased.

Day 7: September 19, 2007 Wednesday

Cliffs of Moher
Again we overslept, so we snacked on the way to the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare. Driving in Ireland is not easy. Most country roads are narrow and most have rocky walls around bends and are covered in vegetation. There are times when cars approach each other and one has to pull over to the side of the field in order for the other car to pass. Farms and fields seem to be separated by darker shrubs, trees, or rocks. Most fields had horses, sheep, cows, goats…etc. grazing in them, and sometimes shared by a combination of them. They seemed to have just about everything except squirrels; while we were there I saw only two.
After arriving and parking at the base of the cliffs we began our journey upwards. The climb was composed of steps, steps, and even more steps. I felt like a mountain goat.

Most people were dressed for the weather in heavy hooded jackets. It was raining, not heavily, but it was extremely windy. My umbrella got turned inside out. Brenda thought me very fetching in my rain bonnet.
With patience and fortitude we forged ahead. Finally arrived at top. The view from the top was well worth the climb. Higher than a castle, and all rocky coastline. There was one further out in the ocean called The Stag’s Head. The waves crashing against the rocks below was an amazing sight. Brenda did not want her picture taken on the trip, but she did on this rare occasion. This was one area she really wanted to see.
While in Ireland I only saw one stout woman. People think nothing of taking extremely long walks, hiking the hills, bicycling…etc.
In order to see all the attractions, you really need to be in top physical condition. No test for stress any doctor can give you could compare with the exertion required on these little jaunts.
We browsed many local shops, looked at parks…etc, and then we started back. On the ride back from the Cliffs of Moher we found a pub that we could park at. We would have gone to more local restaurants, but we could never find a place to park.
Anyway, it was traditionally Irish, with sports on TV— there was a championship match playing. I ordered fish & chips. The fish were the best I ever tasted. I think they fished it out of the lake prior to my arrival. Since this was so special, I’m only sorry we didn’t get to more places like this to eat. It really was nice.

We went back to the hotel and called it a wonderful day.

Day 8: September 20, 2007 Thursday

The Burren & Kerry City


I guess we must be getting used to the time difference and jet lag, because today we got up early enough to have breakfast at the hotel. It was buffet-style with a choice of juice, grapefruit or stewed prunes, cereal, bacon (which was more like ham), fried or scrambled eggs, two kinds of sausage shaped like little triangles that were seeded— very good, then there were beans, broiled tomatoes, a vast variety of bread, bagels, biscuits, and jams. The attendants were friendly and extremely courteous— they went from table to table to serve the guests and they went back to replenish anything you desired. We really enjoyed the meal and the experience.

Today we are going to visit the Burren; it is a place with a historic past. The Burren is a karst limestone region of 300 square kilometers (about 116 sq. miles). It is a very rocky, barren place eroded by water and riddled with underground caves and rivers which flood when it rains. Early inhabitants were more or less cavemen— very primitive people living in caves, dressed in animal skins. They hunted with spears and cooked over open fire. We saw replicas of funeral rites…etc.

Over the years the ocean wore away the land and it became more or less barren, covered with the most incredible species of flowers. In time the Burren will disappear completely.
Ireland has a history that includes beauty, hardship, poverty, famine, castles, quaint cottages, rural villages, great cathedrals and country churches. In recent years, thriving towns and businesses, tourists, and trade have boosted the economy and evolved the country into a prosperous nation with employment for everyone.

I’m not sure if this is the afternoon we went to Kerry or not, but one of the days we took in two sites. We drove to Kerry and rented a jaunting cart in the center of the city. The driver wrapped us in heavy blankets and a waterproof covering as it was misty outside. We toured the city and the driver took us to a national park with a castle donated by a wealthy American. It was over an hour’s ride and the scenery was breathtaking.

When we arrived at the castle we strolled around the grounds, came back and hugged our horse and chatted with the driver. He was a wealth of information and a perfect gentleman, as were all we chanced to meet on our travels. We had a beautiful ride back and we visited many shops...etc. then Brenda and I headed back to our hotel.

On the way we found what we thought was a fancy restaurant. In reality it was a very elegant sports club. We had a delicious drink, chatted with locals, and then we were ushered into a beautiful dining room. I had a chichen dish that was extremely good, but after salad and rolls I could not eat very much of it. Naturally —being me— I asked for a doggie bag. Don’t know if I was the first or not.

Anyway, it came back wrapped in heavy foil with a handle. Looked like an Easter basket. After that wonderful experience we headed back to the hotel for a very restful night.

Day 9: September 21, 2007 Friday

Today was very special because I never thought we would have time to se any part of Northern Ireland. We set out for Dublin, which was about 200 kilometers (about 125 miles) away. We drove on better and wider roads and ate on the way, buying lunch at gas stations.

Can you believe that Brenda set out to find a Harley Davidson store and actually found one? She bought John a gift there. It is like looking for a needle in a haystack.

We arrived at one of the prisons that Eamon De Valera was taken to after the Easter Uprising of 1916. Even though he was spared the execution that the other 13 commanders suffered, he was subject to this very primitive, severe prison. Originally, the cells in this prison (at the time of famine), were about 6x9 feet. There was no heat, no lighting; there was only a peephole in the door of the cell. After the famine, people committed crimes to get sent there so they could get a meal.

Sometimes men, women, and children were all kept in the same cell designed for only one person. The guide told us that prisoners were given a 3” narrow candle that had to last them two weeks. The walls were made of porous rock, as the dampness and moisture always permeated the cells.

We saw another area that had a main yard with three stories of cells. It was there on the second landing that we saw De Valera’s cell. At this time, because of his great leadership and position, they had his name above it. Later, after becoming a math professor, head of the League of Nations, Prime Minister, and later President of Ireland, he came back and dedicated the restoration of the prison. He re-entered his old cell on this occasion.

We also saw the exercise yard where the prisoners were able to get some air and sunshine. They had to walk in shackles one behind another in silence, heads bent, and eyes on the heels of the man in front of them.

We also saw the area where the thirteen commanders of the Easter Uprising were shot. The flag of the Irish Free State was proudly displayed. The firing squad that killed the patriots never knew which shot killed the prisoner, because there was always one blank in each volley.
This is the time I most regretted not having my camcorder. I would have liked to have a recording of our guided tour and share it with my family. I would have liked more information and pamphlets, but they were limited.

We did see machines of torture, menus of meals served, personal effects of money, patriots killed, uniforms…etc.

This was our final day in Ireland. We really covered a tremendous amount of territory and sights in such a short amount of time, but we did it proud thanks to Brenda’s planning and research. She did an absolutely beautiful job.

When we left Dublin we proceeded back to Bunratty Castle. We saw the castle the first day, but this time we came back at night for a medieval festival. We were ushered into the main hall where we were given stoneware cups of mead, which was delicious. Brenda and I were also offered cubed bread with salt to ward off the evil spirits of the castle. I thought they had said “sauce,” so I took quite a bit— ugh.

The attendants were all dressed in medieval garb and were very festive. They circled the hall and greeted everyone. They were accompanied by beautiful music from a violinist and harpist. They chose a newlywed couple to portray the Earl and his wife and they sat at the head table. The rest of us sat at the extremely long table with benches.

We were first served a thick soup in earthenware bowls without spoons— only bread to soak it up with. It was very good. Next we had pork and a huge platter of vegetables. This time we had a dagger. Finally a raspberry dessert of some kind, almost like a pudding (also mead).

The meal was delicious and the performance of songs by the musicians was excellent. At the end of a perfect night we were ushered out of the castle by a piper below.

It seemed like a dream, and a beautiful memory of our last night in the Emerald Isle.
Tomorrow we would be leaving for home, so we went back to the hotel and packed our things. What memories we had.

I hope, by writing this journal, to share a few of our precious moments with you, family and friends.

Day 10: September 22, 2007 Saturday

Final day in Ireland

We got up early so we would arrive at the airport in time to clear customs, check in and return the rented car. After clearance we had time to kill, so we browsed through numerous shops. I got a few more gifts and souvenirs. I was loaded down by the time I joined patient and understanding world traveler Brenda. She goes on so many flights with the military, I don’t think she ever unpacks.

When we finally boarded the plane and got settled, I felt a hand on my shoulder. A flight attendant said “Mrs. Horton? Will you come with me, please?”
I was smuggling dirt and rocks for my mother’s grave, plus that incredible flower plant that we found at Blarney Castle. Oh well, it’s really not a plant till you get it rooted— is it?
When I disembarked the plane they had a bag that they thought might have been my lost suitcase. It was not— sorry to say. At least I wasn’t arrested.

We had an extremely long flight, but Brenda and I were served a drink with our meals. We were on-board the plane for about 13 hours. When we got to the states and landed in Atlanta the honeymoon was over. The personnel there were almost rude— no personal graciousness that we found in Ireland. They almost would have used cattle prongs to move us along. Our country sure could use some tips from other countries. What is that motto on the Statue of Liberty?
Never mind the immigrants— this is the treatment they give their own. We boarded the flight out of Atlanta and landed in Syracuse late at night. Darlene met us at the airport and drove us home. She stayed and chatted a while, but Brenda was beat and headed for home.

Brenda took hundreds of the most fabulous pictures. When she gets them all finished I will get a set and share them later with you.